Monsoon in Nha Trang
After all, it is the "rainy season" in SE Asia, so it would be fitting that we'd have at least one day of downpour. Our day in Nha Trang was that day! We met our tour guide, Huy, at the end of the pier. While he went to get the driver and van, we encountered some ladies selling plastic ponchos. It seemed like a wise idea to get one.... like yesterday, everything is $1. Mine was light yellow, Jan E's was blue, and Janet's was bright yellow. Jan R. was the only one who was smart enough to bright her own rain jacket ashore. They are pretty much like wearing Saran Wrap with arms and a hood (and they cling to your body like Saran Wrap, i.e. sweaty!), but throughout the day we were glad to have them. It poured ALL DAY, but the temperature was warm enough that we never felt cold. Just soggy.
Huy wasn't as easy to understand as Thi had been. At times it was hard work to listen to him, and try to absorb what he was telling us, but he tried in earnest, and he was cute. Steve seemed to have the best success in understanding, and he would literally have to translate the English for us. We attribute this to Steve's experience in working with Vietnamese clients during his career in the mortgage business.
Much to the disgust of the guys, our first stop was the Nha Trang Traditional Arts and Crafts Center, which specializes in hand embroidered goods - a traditional art of the Vietnamese people. We girls were fascinated by watching the ladies perform the intricate embroidery work in the upstairs workshop. The items for sale were high end and beautifully crafted. Handbags, gowns, full sized landscapes for wall decor. Our men didn't think we were off to a very good start with this stop.
Unlike our visit the prior day, the landscape around Nha Trang is exactly how you would picture Vietnam -- lush jungle, gently sloping mountains with temples tucked on the hillsides, rural farming areas. It is also known for its sparkling bays and warm water beaches. It is one of Vietnam's popular beach getaways. The primary industry in Nha Trang is fishing. The fishing boats are painted bright blue, with red trim. Huy said it costs about $2,000 to buy one. They are colorful, but not what you'd consider very "sea worthy". The men leave in the afternoon to fish (in the South China Sea), and spend the night out there. When it's dark, the fish cannot see the nets. They return in the morning, and their women take the fish to the market to sell.
Our first sightseeing stop was the Ponagar Cham Tower, which is dedicated to the goddess Uroja, revered as the symbol of agriculture and weaving. It is believed that she taught the people to plant and harvest rice. The tower was interesting to see, but the rain was hammering, and we were having a difficult time understanding all the details that Huy was trying to share with us (dancing virgins, food offerings, history of the construction). We were glad to move on.
We scampered down a back street, sloshing through the puddles, and walked through the home of people who live on the river. The home was open to the elements, except for a roof, and maybe a wall or two. It was the way to reach the dock, where we were to board a small river boat for a tour of the Cai River. Because of the heavy rains, the river was very muddy, and also looked like what you think it should look like in Vietnam. Our first stop was going to be a coconut milk tasting opportunity. We climbed out of the boat, with help from Huy, and saw a large bull in our path, lounging on the muddy ground. We took pictures with the bull, hoping he would just continue in his calm position of rest. Meanwhile, some of our group had gone ahead and determined that it was too muddy and slippery slimey to remain here. Good choice.
Further up the river we stopped at our lunch destination. This was outdoors, but fortunately covered. No menu. They brought on the family style meal -- rice, vegetables (we didn't know what they all were, but they were good), spring rolls and local beer. Al and Jan had arranged today's tour through Mr. Dung, who is the director of Global Travel Co. (nhatrangrivertour@yahoo.com). He met us at the restaurant, as he checks on all of his daily tours, to make sure his clients are satisfied. I had gotten such a chuckle out of his name, Mr. Dung, but it turns out it's not pronounced with a "D" (quite fortunately!). It's more like a "Jh" sound at the start of his name.
A couple of local guys were selling paintings on silk. We liked the work, supposedly done by their father, and together the girls ended up purchasing six pieces at $5 each. I think this was down from $7 in the beginning. There was a unique wooden bridge, crossing the river, by the restaurant. We understood that it washes out every year during the rainy season, and is rebuilt annually. It is a bridge for pedestrians, motorbikes and bicycles. It was interesting to see the people riding with their flowing "Saran Wrap" ponchos and/or holding umbrellas. Right next to the bridge was a school, with cute children playing outdoors, in their uniforms.
Next stop: Seeing ladies weaving mats. We learned how they harvest the grasses, dry and spin them, and they dye them in bright colors for the mats. The largest mats are used for sleeping. The smallest are place mat size. Janet got to practice using the loom. The three ladies here were charming and we made a personal connection, in spite of the language barrier. It turned out they are sisters, and we were invited to see the home, which was near the workshop. The home was lovely, with tile floors, the Buddha altar, and very clean and tidy large rooms. We were told it was the father's house, but of course, they all live there. The ground around the home was like sand from the beach. Their garden plants (and they had a lot of them) were all in containers, rather than planted in the sand. They had a sizeable shrine in the yard. Apparently, when the father bought the land, and began to construct the home, it was learned that the remains of a person were buried on the property. They don't know who it is, but likely a soldier from the war (either side). As is customary, they built the shrine to honor this deceased person because he cannot be returned to his family. It even included some red electric lights.
I wasn't quite sure where we were going next because it sounded like "pickle house" to me (what would that be??). Oh, it turned out to be a "typical house", which is preserved from 200 years ago. It was very ornate, and there were two young women in the garden being "typical" by playing Vietnamese musical instruments. Inside we were served a plate of fruit. Even though we were all still plenty satisfied from our lunch, it would have been rude not to eat the fruit. The dragon fruit looks like a pink puffer fish. Its meat is white, with tiny black seeds. Quite tasty, actually. The fruit that no one much cared for was kind of brown and mushy. Oddly enough, I ate all of mine, and what was left of Al's. This is odd because I'm usually not the fruit eater in the crowd. Most of them thought it was too sweet, like a cold sweet potato. I thought it was okay. Not great, but okay.
Off to the Dam Market back in downtown Nha Trang. I saw a rat which really freaked me out. I screamed. I wouldn't leave Ernie's side for a while. I'm not sure what I thought he would do to protect me, but it felt better being with him, while he and Jan shopped for something for Baby Rel Eerkes. Huy was like a mother hen with us.... worried that we would get pickpocketed or something. A young boy named Thom took it upon himself to become Jan E's and my "bodyguard" and led us to his mother's booth and then followed us around. He was very cute, so we gave him a couple of dollars for his enterprising efforts.
It was time to return to the ship. As we got out of the van, there were the same ladies who had sold us the ponchos in the morning. We greeted each other fondly. One of the ladies, Lucky, told me that she is a single mother with three children. Ernie said her name should be "Unlucky". She was very friendly and gregarious.
As we stood in line for the tender, Jan E. realized she didn't have her camera! She darted back to where the van had dropped us off, but of course our driver had left by then. Lucky and other locals gathered around, expressing concern, but also assuring her that it would be okay. Lucky summoned her sister, with a motorbike, and only Ernie saw this, but there was Jan with her blue plastic poncho flowing, riding up the hill with sister "Kim" on that crazy motorbike! That must have been a sight! To make a long story short, they caught up with our driver at the place where the vans congregate, and sure enough, the camera was in the vehicle. Once again, we saw the honesty and genuine caring of the people of Vietnam. After that we decided that someone needs to "sweep" after Ernie and Jan, to make sure they aren't dropping things and leaving their belongings behind. We attributed it to their "advancing age" and had a good laugh over drinks upon returning to the ship. Our ritual now is to have "show and tell" after our day on shore, to show everyone what each has purchased. The best purchase that day was the Snake Wine, with a cobra in the bottle. We bought that for our waitress, Tereza because she had coveted the one her roommate bought the day prior. She was thrilled to receive it.
We like to have the late seating for dinner, but weren't able to get it on this cruise (all the reserved late seating tables were already booked). We tried different dining rooms for the first few nights, checking out the ambience and the personality of the wait staff. One morning we had a sit down breakfast, and met Tereza from Slovakia. We so enjoyed her wit and charm, and decided that we would like to have a permanent table in her section for dinner in the Santa Fe dining room. It has worked out great, and we're also becoming buddies with her Head Waiter, Carlos from Mexico. They are a fun team.
I had a "Hair Experience" that evening! I had to use a hair dryer for the first time in ten months because the back of my head was still wet from showering, when I went to put my wig on. Towel drying it wasn't enough. That's a first!
Huy wasn't as easy to understand as Thi had been. At times it was hard work to listen to him, and try to absorb what he was telling us, but he tried in earnest, and he was cute. Steve seemed to have the best success in understanding, and he would literally have to translate the English for us. We attribute this to Steve's experience in working with Vietnamese clients during his career in the mortgage business.
Much to the disgust of the guys, our first stop was the Nha Trang Traditional Arts and Crafts Center, which specializes in hand embroidered goods - a traditional art of the Vietnamese people. We girls were fascinated by watching the ladies perform the intricate embroidery work in the upstairs workshop. The items for sale were high end and beautifully crafted. Handbags, gowns, full sized landscapes for wall decor. Our men didn't think we were off to a very good start with this stop.
Unlike our visit the prior day, the landscape around Nha Trang is exactly how you would picture Vietnam -- lush jungle, gently sloping mountains with temples tucked on the hillsides, rural farming areas. It is also known for its sparkling bays and warm water beaches. It is one of Vietnam's popular beach getaways. The primary industry in Nha Trang is fishing. The fishing boats are painted bright blue, with red trim. Huy said it costs about $2,000 to buy one. They are colorful, but not what you'd consider very "sea worthy". The men leave in the afternoon to fish (in the South China Sea), and spend the night out there. When it's dark, the fish cannot see the nets. They return in the morning, and their women take the fish to the market to sell.
Our first sightseeing stop was the Ponagar Cham Tower, which is dedicated to the goddess Uroja, revered as the symbol of agriculture and weaving. It is believed that she taught the people to plant and harvest rice. The tower was interesting to see, but the rain was hammering, and we were having a difficult time understanding all the details that Huy was trying to share with us (dancing virgins, food offerings, history of the construction). We were glad to move on.
We scampered down a back street, sloshing through the puddles, and walked through the home of people who live on the river. The home was open to the elements, except for a roof, and maybe a wall or two. It was the way to reach the dock, where we were to board a small river boat for a tour of the Cai River. Because of the heavy rains, the river was very muddy, and also looked like what you think it should look like in Vietnam. Our first stop was going to be a coconut milk tasting opportunity. We climbed out of the boat, with help from Huy, and saw a large bull in our path, lounging on the muddy ground. We took pictures with the bull, hoping he would just continue in his calm position of rest. Meanwhile, some of our group had gone ahead and determined that it was too muddy and slippery slimey to remain here. Good choice.
Further up the river we stopped at our lunch destination. This was outdoors, but fortunately covered. No menu. They brought on the family style meal -- rice, vegetables (we didn't know what they all were, but they were good), spring rolls and local beer. Al and Jan had arranged today's tour through Mr. Dung, who is the director of Global Travel Co. (nhatrangrivertour@yahoo.com). He met us at the restaurant, as he checks on all of his daily tours, to make sure his clients are satisfied. I had gotten such a chuckle out of his name, Mr. Dung, but it turns out it's not pronounced with a "D" (quite fortunately!). It's more like a "Jh" sound at the start of his name.
A couple of local guys were selling paintings on silk. We liked the work, supposedly done by their father, and together the girls ended up purchasing six pieces at $5 each. I think this was down from $7 in the beginning. There was a unique wooden bridge, crossing the river, by the restaurant. We understood that it washes out every year during the rainy season, and is rebuilt annually. It is a bridge for pedestrians, motorbikes and bicycles. It was interesting to see the people riding with their flowing "Saran Wrap" ponchos and/or holding umbrellas. Right next to the bridge was a school, with cute children playing outdoors, in their uniforms.
Next stop: Seeing ladies weaving mats. We learned how they harvest the grasses, dry and spin them, and they dye them in bright colors for the mats. The largest mats are used for sleeping. The smallest are place mat size. Janet got to practice using the loom. The three ladies here were charming and we made a personal connection, in spite of the language barrier. It turned out they are sisters, and we were invited to see the home, which was near the workshop. The home was lovely, with tile floors, the Buddha altar, and very clean and tidy large rooms. We were told it was the father's house, but of course, they all live there. The ground around the home was like sand from the beach. Their garden plants (and they had a lot of them) were all in containers, rather than planted in the sand. They had a sizeable shrine in the yard. Apparently, when the father bought the land, and began to construct the home, it was learned that the remains of a person were buried on the property. They don't know who it is, but likely a soldier from the war (either side). As is customary, they built the shrine to honor this deceased person because he cannot be returned to his family. It even included some red electric lights.
I wasn't quite sure where we were going next because it sounded like "pickle house" to me (what would that be??). Oh, it turned out to be a "typical house", which is preserved from 200 years ago. It was very ornate, and there were two young women in the garden being "typical" by playing Vietnamese musical instruments. Inside we were served a plate of fruit. Even though we were all still plenty satisfied from our lunch, it would have been rude not to eat the fruit. The dragon fruit looks like a pink puffer fish. Its meat is white, with tiny black seeds. Quite tasty, actually. The fruit that no one much cared for was kind of brown and mushy. Oddly enough, I ate all of mine, and what was left of Al's. This is odd because I'm usually not the fruit eater in the crowd. Most of them thought it was too sweet, like a cold sweet potato. I thought it was okay. Not great, but okay.
Off to the Dam Market back in downtown Nha Trang. I saw a rat which really freaked me out. I screamed. I wouldn't leave Ernie's side for a while. I'm not sure what I thought he would do to protect me, but it felt better being with him, while he and Jan shopped for something for Baby Rel Eerkes. Huy was like a mother hen with us.... worried that we would get pickpocketed or something. A young boy named Thom took it upon himself to become Jan E's and my "bodyguard" and led us to his mother's booth and then followed us around. He was very cute, so we gave him a couple of dollars for his enterprising efforts.
It was time to return to the ship. As we got out of the van, there were the same ladies who had sold us the ponchos in the morning. We greeted each other fondly. One of the ladies, Lucky, told me that she is a single mother with three children. Ernie said her name should be "Unlucky". She was very friendly and gregarious.
As we stood in line for the tender, Jan E. realized she didn't have her camera! She darted back to where the van had dropped us off, but of course our driver had left by then. Lucky and other locals gathered around, expressing concern, but also assuring her that it would be okay. Lucky summoned her sister, with a motorbike, and only Ernie saw this, but there was Jan with her blue plastic poncho flowing, riding up the hill with sister "Kim" on that crazy motorbike! That must have been a sight! To make a long story short, they caught up with our driver at the place where the vans congregate, and sure enough, the camera was in the vehicle. Once again, we saw the honesty and genuine caring of the people of Vietnam. After that we decided that someone needs to "sweep" after Ernie and Jan, to make sure they aren't dropping things and leaving their belongings behind. We attributed it to their "advancing age" and had a good laugh over drinks upon returning to the ship. Our ritual now is to have "show and tell" after our day on shore, to show everyone what each has purchased. The best purchase that day was the Snake Wine, with a cobra in the bottle. We bought that for our waitress, Tereza because she had coveted the one her roommate bought the day prior. She was thrilled to receive it.
We like to have the late seating for dinner, but weren't able to get it on this cruise (all the reserved late seating tables were already booked). We tried different dining rooms for the first few nights, checking out the ambience and the personality of the wait staff. One morning we had a sit down breakfast, and met Tereza from Slovakia. We so enjoyed her wit and charm, and decided that we would like to have a permanent table in her section for dinner in the Santa Fe dining room. It has worked out great, and we're also becoming buddies with her Head Waiter, Carlos from Mexico. They are a fun team.
I had a "Hair Experience" that evening! I had to use a hair dryer for the first time in ten months because the back of my head was still wet from showering, when I went to put my wig on. Towel drying it wasn't enough. That's a first!
posted by Sniglet's Mom @ 2:33 AM
1 Comments:
At 6:48 AM,
Anonymous said…
I am learning so much about the Orient reading your blog. You do a terrific job describing the countries you are visiting. I will be anxious to learn more about your travels when you return.
JoAnne
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